The Best Ribbon Made

by

Laine Farley

This elegant Victorian lady appears to be attired for the evening with her upswept hair adorned by a sort of tiara and her low-cut gown embellished with ribbons on her shoulders. The title confirms that “Ladies of fashion always use the ‘Fair and Square’ ribbon,” and the reverse proudly proclaims that the trademarked label is on the best ribbon made.

I thought it would be a challenge to discover more about this ribbon with only the trademark and no location or other information. As luck would have it, a search on “fair and square ribbon” popped up a nice article, posted on January 29, 2010, by Eric K. Washington titled “Joseph Loth & Company Silk Ribbon Mill: The Fair And Square Silk Weaving Factory In Washington Heights.” Mr. Washington, a writer, photographer and New York City tour guide, reveals that Loth’s ribbon mill was and still is quite a building with its distinctive “K” shape and was designated a landmark in 1993. A vestige of an ad still exists on the side of the building that reads “Fair and Square — This Label Is On The Best Ribbon Made.” No doubt about this being the same company as the bookmark.

A work published during the year the factory was built  in 1886 titled “Finance and industry: the New York Stock Exchange: banks, bankers, business houses, and moneyed institutions: the great metropolis of the United States” has an article on p. 135 about “Joseph Loth & Co., Manufacturers, Fine silk ribbons, etc.”  that features the distinctive trademark. We learn that “Their trade-mark . . . is the spirit which pervades both their manufacturing and selling departments, and the high standard of excellence always maintained is doubtless the secret of their rapid strides to their present high place in the silk industry of America.” Clearly, they targeted the upper crust described as “a class of consumers to whom the price is not paramount to quality and who prefer silk free from all adulterants and made to wear as well as to sell.”

Washington’s article references the “Kings Handbook of New York City,” published in 1893 by Moses King. The entry for Joseph Loth & Co. on p. 974 has a photo of the impressive building that housed 600 employees. The entry confirms that “they sell fine goods only. They have never put any cheap grades on the market” with ribbons in 15 widths, 200 shades of color and 80-90 styles. The article goes on to claim that the trademark is “known in every corner of the United States,” and that Loth’s is the only ribbon manufacturer that advertises extensively. The ads are described as “striking and effective, as well as dignified, as every one whose range of reading is wide already knows.” Certainly the lady on the bookmark is striking and dignified, but I was curious to find other examples.

The March 19, 1891 issue of Life magazine has only a small ad with no illustration that states “the latest shades of ribbon can be procured in the ‘Fair and Square’ ribbon; it is the best made.” This ad is certainly dignified but maybe too understated to be striking or effective. A larger ad in an 1892 issue of Harper’s is more assertive, featuring the trademark and proclaiming that “Winter dresses will need ribbon for trimming. Best styles in newest colors come in the celebrated ‘Fair and Square’ brand.” But it is the December, 1892 issue of Scribner’s, p. 83, that delivers on the claim of being striking. A lovely illustration of a lady in a draped gown with chin in hand and two cupids hovering around her is labeled “A Confidential Whisper. Buy Fair and Square ribbon for Christmas fancy work; it makes a plain article elegant.” I could not locate other examples, and this one again seems understated compared to the overly ornate designs typical of the Victorian period.

I did learn more about Mr. Loth who emigrated from Austria. He was originally in the hosiery business for twenty-four years before starting his successful silk ribbon business in New York. His firm had its share of difficulties with a fire in 1882 and a series of strikes by silk workers throughout its history.

He married Fannie Popper on April 17, 1853 and had two sons, Bernard and Henry, born in Hartford, CT, and a daughter Louise. Joseph and Fannie commemorated their fiftieth wedding anniversary in 1903 and published a note of thanks in the New York Times on April 19, 1903 to all those who helped them celebrate.

Both sons worked in the business which continued through the 1910s. When Joseph died on May 29, 1910, his obituary stated that “by his expressed instructions there will be no funeral ceremonies other than the reading of the Masonic Ritual at his late residence . . . Please send no flowers.” A brief article in the New York Times on June 7, 1910 noted that he left his estate to Bernard.

According to an article on Bernard in Who’s Who in New York (City and State) in 1905, he retired around 1900. In the New York Times, Jan 17, 1913, p. 9,  an article titled “Ribbon Outlook Good,” quoted Henry as saying that  “Fashion did not demand an extensive use of ribbon in the past year either for dress or millinery garniture,” perhaps an indication of the waning popularity of silk ribbons on the eve of World War I. The building experienced a fire in 1916 and was sold in 1928. It has been used for a skating rink, a movie theater, garment and furniture stores, and even a church. Its signature trademark remains, a promise of quality outlasting fires, fashions, family, and refurbishing.

One mystery remains, however. Why did the company advertise its wares on a celluloid bookmark rather than using its own high quality ribbons? Did it seem inappropriate to reduce the fancy textiles to a lowly bookmark, defiled by an ad, no matter how dignified? Or was celluloid a more durable choice to carry the trademark and message? Maybe it did have a small ribbon attached to the hole at the top. Absent any other examples, it’s only speculation, but wouldn’t it be fitting to find a beautiful silk ribbon bookmark boasting about the best ribbon ever made, fair and square?

Bookmark specifications: Ladies of fashion always use the “Fair and Square” ribbon
Dimensions: 1 7/8" x 2 1/8"
Material: Celluloid
Manufacturer: Unknown but made for Joseph Loth & Co.
Date: 1890s?
Acquired: eBay

Laine Farley is a digital librarian who misses being around the look, feel and smell of real books.  Her collection of over 3,000 bookmarks began with a serendipitous find while reviewing books donated to the library. Fortunately, her complementary collection of articles and books about bookmarks provides an excuse for her to get back to libraries and try her hand at writing about bookmarks. Contact Laine.